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Loire II

May. 27th, 2019 07:49 pm
selenak: (BambergerReiter by Ningloreth)
[personal profile] selenak
Tomorrow, we`ll move on to Brittany, so today we finished our time in the Loire valley in as breathtakingly beautiful surroundings as we started. I mean -

Chenonceau photo D0ADF1C6-9E34-4F29-868F-C55C710A2440_zpshxoc2avy.jpeg



I`ll start small again, though. We threw in Beauregard at the last moment, but were glad to do so, because this relatively small chateau which started out as a hunting place for Francis I turned out to be very charming.


Beauregard photo 9F73519C-8FD9-4B56-9B9C-ECA434306063_zpsnypvil8e.jpeg

The kitchen

Kueche Beauregard photo D5C4293F-1AE8-48C8-8A21-DB7F08F15882_zpsla4pforr.jpeg

Rustic or not, they have a portrait gallery consisting of 327 portraits

Gemaeldegalerie Beauregard photo B9665898-0742-4551-ABCA-040F0D336C6F_zpsrmvzu60n.jpeg

With some English celebreties thrown in

Englaender in Beauregard photo 4ADC7D5E-39B3-4739-9D71-61216B5A85A6_zpse3tdrc9n.jpeg

Beauregard is still privately owned, as is Cheverny, our next stop. If you`re into comics, Cheverny served as Herge`s inspiration for Moulinsart, the chateau of the Tintin comics, or, as we call them in German, `Tim und Struppi`. Here it is -

Cheverny photo D7BD79FE-FA5A-4580-BB1C-A1317377C4B7_zps3jq4lv6i.jpeg

The rooms open to the public are gorgeously decorated, like this dining room.

Speisesaal I  - Cheverny photo 513FEA2D-D5A2-4DEA-A4E5-12B0F1BF3A47_zpsianrere8.jpeg

And extravagently. They alll have a crime theme, Arsene Lupin, Phantomas, ACD`s hound of the Baskervilles. Here`s Hitchcock -

Hitchcock photo ED44860E-FE5E-49CF-BE84-6FFAB53FAA3A_zps8sf4mm2a.jpeg

If the King ever visited, he`d have been given this room -

Das Gemach des Koenigs - Cheverny photo FA152F30-B272-4813-9A67-4105DD19586E_zps0jquyah6.jpeg

The grand salon

Der grosse Salon Cheverny photo 0D1A6618-7C79-428B-A302-FDCA9F5E84EF_zpskuh4oqro.jpeg

The library

Bibliothek Cheverny photo 0FF0A937-E6AD-48B8-9D35-A12D8F7FBA92_zpsevm3gvpp.jpeg

Bye, Cheverny -
Cheverny romantisch photo 85A92908-2C15-4848-A1B1-E2ABB6898BB5_zpsyutkvnqm.jpeg

Blois boasts of having been the main residence of the Valois kings. They also, like most of the Loire towns and castles, make the most of the Leonardo anniversary. Just check out their redecoration of the stairs -

Mona Lisa gross photo 798DE415-C693-4EA7-B41C-CD6A43B65265_zpsrrdospqu.jpeg

Whereas a Blois alley looks like this -

Gasse Blois photo 5C917B0C-32A2-4FBE-8E1A-D97814D9C46A_zpsfis9rsz9.jpeg

The chateau de Blois

Burg von Blois photo 40A80E37-6634-4E4C-9864-2AC0BFAF20B8_zpslwof9kou.jpeg

Which has its own rider reminding me of the one in my hometown of Bamberg

Reiter von Blois photo DF3D8BD9-8D15-4420-935E-3801699CB96C_zpspqb9fbru.jpeg

The cour d`honneur

Ehrenhof Blois photo A46F3986-04C2-4B15-8EE5-7163BFB53C14_zpsptmm8tgn.jpeg

Of which the stairs are a main attraction

Wendeltreppe photo 4EAD607E-87A7-4C96-AEDB-AEF1368C188F_zpsgblhwftc.jpeg

Check out the details

Ceres photo 2301AEA6-24B8-4725-A9DB-A3E16A6C6FCC_zpswvlm7ch2.jpeg

That part of the palace dates to Francis I` time, hence all the salamanders again. Whereas this one hails from his predecessor Louis XII` era. Louis was famous mainly for two things in historical pop culture - choosing the porcupine as his personal emblem, and marrying Henry VIII` youngest sister Mary in his old age, then dying, which allowed her to marry her true love, the multi-married Charles Brandon, later Duke of Suffolk.

Fluegel Ludwig XII photo BF21C0ED-C051-4593-A425-61354FB3228C_zpsgg0pw0lf.jpeg

The general assembly hall

Generalstaende-Saal photo 611A4F00-26BA-40EB-9778-B75F156C8D44_zpsbm66q0hd.jpeg

The king`s room in Francis` part of the castle

Saal des Koenigs photo B53C69EB-5D7D-4C0A-B53E-855B3703E4AC_zpskepmyucp.jpeg

The queen`s gallery, the queen in question being Catherine de` Medici

Galerie der Koenigin photo 5BD568A2-4677-441A-8DCC-F00239BCCD93_zpswatwjf7v.jpeg

Bedroom of Catherine`s son Henri III, also supposedly the place where his arch enemy the Duke de Guise was murdered at his instigation. Henri III was murdered not too much later, and that was the end of the Valois dynasty.

Schlafgemach Henri III photo 6F8F60C1-8AE9-44E3-B032-CAF9D1CDD2EA_zpsejavbbv4.jpeg

It`s worth checking out the view out of the windows. Gargoyles over Blois!

Wasserspeier von Blois photo BD31C4AE-6855-4932-96CC-414BCA07BCD6_zpsqtktihr7.jpeg

Adieu, royal palace!

Chateau durch Park - Blois photo 40690675-EE98-42B2-842A-2E95498528F9_zpscgjjswbv.jpeg

Never mind Blois, though, the true Leonardo da Vinci cult place in France is Amboise, where he died. The chateau d` Amboise looks best from outside, at a distance, in the evening. Here it is from the other side of the river.


Amboise photo FF56185A-B066-4D00-A807-DAB04AF3320F_zpsdzife4wg.jpeg

And here it is as viewed from my hotel room while the sun was setting.

Amboise im Sonenuntergang photo 67B92E1A-60D3-40D0-8020-AF8A9A33B63C_zpsufrdi4rk.jpeg

Sonnenuntergang Amboise photo C9DCA3B8-1501-4B55-8EA0-019DABF85EAD_zpszvgca6jk.jpeg

About eight minutes on foot from the castle, you get to the Chateau du Clos Luce, where Leonardo spent his final years courtesy of Francis I.


Chateau du Clos Luce photo FBA6A5CF-0E43-4AFE-8800-1593EF968218_zps7vgy4fnu.jpeg

Among many other things, they tried to reconstruct his bodegga, showing his various skill sets - painter, engineer, futurist.

Das Atelier des Malers photo B4988653-3EAC-4499-945C-A4AA55A12B27_zpsdv4jhoun.jpeg

Das Atelier des Ingenieurs photo A372ECFD-A434-4E45-930D-0681F98ECD20_zpsarzkssmx.jpeg

Das Atelier des Zeichners photo 907A38D4-40F0-4E0E-96F9-69A883B96A56_zpsq0bi09fm.jpeg

Here`s the meeting between Leonardo and Cardinal Louis d` Aragon in said studiolo who described it and the paintings Leonardo showed to him.

Leonardo trifft Louis d`Aragon photo 2AA42911-698C-4EF8-89FE-ECC998151EA8_zpsy1ybi0ky.jpeg

There are small scale models of all those fabulous inventions - which didn`t work - in the house itself, but for the 500th anniversary, there are also large scale models in the park. Like the moveable bridge -

Die bewegliche Bruecke photo 050CAEB4-3021-42CC-B952-B33A0EE3C56B_zpsmtbjwwud.jpeg

And there are large scale homages to Leonardo`s drawings everywhere

Koerper photo 22920692-0108-4EDF-9E07-AE612F3EE675_zpsucse0esv.jpeg

And quotes of the man all over the place. In French, naturally. Take that, Florence.

Now, for the big finale, there are two chateaus primarily associated with two very strong willed ladies, Catherine de` Medici and her rival Diane de` Poitiers. Diane was eighteen years older than Henri II who fell in love with her as a teenager and never fell out of it. Which was very good for Diane but pretty much a long term humiliation conga for Catherine, who married the then second son of the King, prince Henri, when she was 15, spent the next ten years ignored by her husband and increasingly desperate for children, then finally got pregnant and didn`t stop getting pregnant for the next decade, though Diane was the one actually in charge of raising the kids. And everything else. And her initials were everywhere. Henri even gave her the crown jewels and crown castles like Chenonceau. When he died, though, it was payday, big time. Catherine demanded Chenonceau back - and the crown jewels, of course -, and made Diane switch it for Chaumond. Which by itself isn`t bad. It`s just not Chenoncau. Diane, still a builder, did have it extended, until it looked thusly from the other side of the Loire -


Chaumont vom Fluss aus photo 35A1C708-EDB8-4391-A20F-58CD1559DB10_zpsupfypuvs.jpeg

Chaumont ueber der Loire photo 653467B1-25F3-414D-8826-87ED58EC03BE_zpsq7hynfon.jpeg

Or, from the land side -

Chateau de Chaumond photo C2DAF7C4-6E3D-489F-9895-471D72C223E1_zpspi1pfn6p.jpeg

There`s quite a lot of land around Chaumond, as today it`s the place of a gigantic garden festival. Strolling around in the park can take all day.

Gartenblick auf Burg Chaumond photo EB24A8A9-D43C-43E4-944B-760B18BE7914_zpsuclrm5wg.jpeg

One of the current festival gardens -

Aus dem Gartenfestival photo 3AE2C752-1007-45B9-BADC-F216C8C80392_zps8ef05svg.jpeg

Part of the castle is also used for contemporary art, as, for example, the chapel -

Kapelle Chaumond photo 8F7B7CF7-6E4F-4824-9ED4-48B40623135C_zpski8anhig.jpeg

Now, here is Cenonceau, also refered to as the Chateau des Dames, and not just because of Diane and Catherine. It also was, in turn, home to one of Catherine`s daughters-in-law, Louise de Lorraine, referred to as the white queen because after the assassination of her husband, Henri III, she never stopped wearing white, which was the colour of mourning for French royals, Louise Dupin, who held one of the most famous salons of the Enlightenment here, and managed to get the palace undamaged through the French Revolution, and Simone Menier, sister superior of the hospital Chenonceau was turned into during WWI - her family`s fortune, made from chocolate, served as the financial basis - and resistance fighter in WWII. I`ll give you the beautiful but not yet breathtaking views first.


Allee Chenonceau photo 483D6B6F-1C36-463B-B943-CA6B81CFC552_zpsyekhyp7z.jpeg

Burg und Turm Chenonceau photo 1B6B80F8-C2BE-4E4D-923B-3EE15EC32C7B_zpsanuuarpa.jpeg

Chenonceau is state owned, but the property is incredibly well maintained, fresh flowes in every room included.

Vorraum von Katherine Briconnet photo 5D738A61-F090-475C-8693-9A54C8D0814B_zpsqqk2yv2z.jpeg

This was Diane`s room.

Dianes Zimmer Chenonceau photo DE421965-7059-4D3D-A9DC-1F773E1DC0A9_zpsjczhhawm.jpeg

The cabinet of engravings

Kupferstichkabinett photo CB78AEBA-F307-4652-AC21-0FEF3D59E863_zpszpbvojel.jpeg

Still not the breathtaking view, but I do love this one from the sidelines as well as we go outside once more.

Chenonceau und Rosen photo 25AB78B4-9EE7-408A-86AE-1451E7A4E267_zpsir40s7wl.jpeg

That`s the Chateau as seen from Diane`s garden.

Katharinas Garten und Chateau photo B7A13ACD-F896-4F8A-8561-BAD6D44498DA_zps2anju446.jpeg

And this, finally, is the view that slays. We were there early in the morning before the weather changed, and never was there a better decision. Because...

Chateau de Chenonceau photo A309E97E-502F-45BF-8794-7E3E16AD98BD_zpsljkifudp.jpeg


Which leaves me to say goodbye to Amboise and the Loire valley from my hotel window. Next stop Bretagne!


Silhouette Amboise photo BE1123AC-4B5C-472E-8F2A-3B9BFDF73FE9_zps45fx6z0k.jpeg

Date: 2019-05-27 06:18 pm (UTC)
muccamukk: The three Musketeers walking together down a Paris street. (Musketeers: Three Inseparables)
From: [personal profile] muccamukk
Marie d' Medici was exiled to Blois at one point. Clearly a great hardship.

Date: 2019-05-27 08:23 pm (UTC)
shadowkat: (Default)
From: [personal profile] shadowkat
Beautiful. Thank you. DW is still doing that huge picture thing. But doesn't matter, beautiful. Thank you for sharing.

Date: 2019-05-27 09:57 pm (UTC)
jesuswasbatman: (Default)
From: [personal profile] jesuswasbatman
Engravings, in English.

Date: 2019-05-27 11:41 pm (UTC)
chelseagirl: Alice -- Tenniel (Default)
From: [personal profile] chelseagirl
Wow.

Date: 2019-05-28 04:55 pm (UTC)
reverancepavane: (Default)
From: [personal profile] reverancepavane
Lovely.

Date: 2019-05-30 02:07 pm (UTC)
linaerys: (Default)
From: [personal profile] linaerys
This is all stunning! Thank you for sharing all the pictures!

Date: 2019-06-02 08:39 am (UTC)
redfiona99: (Default)
From: [personal profile] redfiona99
Thanks for all the lovely pictures. Also, thank you for telling me what the name of the castle is because it came up on a colleague's screensaver, and there have been internal debates ever since, because no, Microsoft, just saying Loire Valley in the description does not help.

You're the second person I know who has been to Blois Castle in the past month and I am starting to feel left out ;)

Date: 2022-10-17 12:09 am (UTC)
lynnenne: (life: behind door number one)
From: [personal profile] lynnenne
Beautiful photographs! Thank you for posting these. I miss travelling.

Date: 2023-09-10 09:14 pm (UTC)
cahn: (Default)
From: [personal profile] cahn
Wow, I apparently missed this at the time?? This is all so gorgeous!

Also, why don't more chapels and castles have contemporary art? I like it!


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