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selenak: (City - KathyH)
[personal profile] selenak
This year, for obvious reasons, travelling abroad is out, but I could combine work and enjoyment this week by visiting Saxony. Which means: at long last, another travelling pic spam!

Dresden an der Elbe




That was Dresden above. Aka Florence upon the Elbe, aka town of Baroque party times, aka, also, sadly, setting of right extremist demonstrations. More about Dresden later, but first: pictures from the one day where it wasn't hot with a clear blue sky. Which was when I visited Bautzen.

Bautzen Gesamt


[personal profile] mildred_of_midgard and [personal profile] cahn, this is where AW was disgraced in front of the Prussian army. Everyone else: in GDR times, Bautzen was infamous because of the prison they had there, so that was how I first heard about it, but it is in fact as you can see a very historic and beautifully located town.

Bautzen Rundgang

Bautzen Marktplatz

Bautzen mit schiefen Turm

The self advertised "greatest castle of Saxony" is Königstein. In war time the place to keep your treasury and yourself if your highly militarized neighbour invades, not that it did much good to August(us) III at the start of the Seven-Years-War. (Saxony was conquered poste haste regardless.) Looks awesome, though.

Königstein 2

Königstein

Königstein über Elbe

A little less than thirty years earlier, August 3's father, August(us) the Strong, Prince Elector of Saxony, King of Poland and Baroque Party Boy Extraordinaire, received the highly militarized Prussian neighbours here in a more peaceful fashion. Which is why you can see inside the castle replicas of of August the Strong (the one with the periwig), his favourite (illegitimate) daughter, the Countess Orzelska (rumor had it she was also his mistress; rumor also had it she got to deflower the visiting teenage Crown Prince Friedrich, one of the few women he showed interest in), and Friedrich Wilhelm (I), aka the Soldlier King (contender though not winner for Worst Royal Father of the Century; the reason why FW doesn't take the top position is that Czar Peter the Great tortured his son to death some years earlier, which does beat years of abuse and beheading your son's lover in front of him).

August-Orzelska-FW-2

August-Orzelska-FW-1

Not far away from Königstein is the "Bastei", part of Saxonian Switzerland, a facade of rocks which was also used as a defense post and later was made a popular hiking spot not least courtesy to Caspar David Friedrich.

Bastei

You can see what he saw in it:

Elbe Bastei

Bastei Überblick

Bastei Panorama

Brücke und Felsen

The day I spent wandering around there was the only one where it wasn't hot and sunny, though. Dresden showed itself from his best Florence-upon-the-Elbe light. Mind you: every time I visit Dresden I have to pinch myself and remind myself again that virtually everything had to be rebuild, because there was nothing left in 1945. Meanwhile, today:

Dresden mit Schiff Pillnitz

And from above, as seen from the Fraunkirche.

The right side (this includes Brühl's former palace which during the Seven Years War also served as Prussian headquarters after they conquered the city:

Blick von Frauenkirche - rechts

Left side, with the royal residence (where the Queen of Poland and Prince Electress of Saxony, who hadn't left when her husband did, spent the war as a sort of prisoner in a gilded cage:

Blick von Frauenkirche - links


The first time I visited Dresden, directly after the border was open, the Frauenkirche was still in ruins. Now:


Frauenkirche


Frauenkirche

And, see above, you have a great view from the cupola. Back to the ground level.

Saxony's PM under August 2 and August 3, Count Brühl, was as much a big spender as his rulers. One of his enduring legacies are the Brühlsche Terrassen.

Brühl und Frauenkirche


The Semper Opera:

Semperoper

The Zwinger (the most famous collection of which is the jewelry in the Green Vault, the Grünes Gewölbe, which was robbed just a few months ago); this is the inner courtyard.

Zwinger von innen

Still the inner courtyard; here you can see the crown of Poland, which August (2) of Saxony and his son laid claim to (and rather proud of it they were, too, see: size.)

Zwinger mit Krone

Some bits from the legendary treasury:

Elfenbeinschiff

Venus unterwegs

Edel

Rococo backgammon:

Rokoko-Backgammon

August the Strong didn't just show off via jewelry, though. When he invited the Prussian neigbours (again) for a big military review in 1730, he brought along a supposedly Turkish tent, among many other things:

Türkisches Zelt _ Zeithain

And then there was his wardrobe. I mean:

Krönungsrock August

Galarock August

Even his bathrobe looked thusly:

Morgenmantel August

Swearing eternal friendship to the neighbour. Well, he and Friedrich Wilhelm shared a fondness for alcohol, so there was that.

August und FW

This was formed using a mask taken during August's life time, so that must have been how he actually looked like:

Maske von August


Now, wanting to be the Saxonian Sun King did of course mean building places not just in Dresden. This was August's favourite palace, Pillnitz:

Schloss Pillnitz

Elbterrasse Pillnitz

Pillnitz Front

In the 18th century, a lot of princes developed a thing for anything Chinese, August included.

Seitenflügel Pillnitz

Inside it looks like this:

Pillnitz Raum

Whether or not August actually had as many illegitimate children as the year has days, it was the gossip about him. Some of his mistresses lasted longer than others; none was as influential as Anna Constantia, Countess Cosel. Unfortunately, it didn't end well for her. He'd gone as far as marrying her morganatically and promised her, in writing, he'd marry her properly if his wife died. The eventual breakup was ugly, featured her attempting to leave the country and being returned to Saxony by August's Prussian buddy FW, and afterwards 46 years as a prisoner. In Stolpen Castle, here:

Burg Stolpen

Blick Johannisturm

She lived in the Johannis Tower:

Johannisturm

Zimmer Cosel

Where as an old lady, who incidentally had remained unconvential and defiant and had converted to Judaism in a century which put all the usual historical pressure on Jews to convert to Christianity, she received Prussian Prince Heinrich, Frederick's younger brother.

She's buried in the castle, too, here:

Krypta Cosel

Incidentally, it wasn't destroyed by the Prussians. The French burnt it when retreating after Napoleon lost the battle of Leipzig in 1812.

As a finale, have a look at yet another of August's palaces, Moritzburg:

Moritzburg Romantisch

Moritzburg A

Wasserschloss Moritzburg

Fare thee well, Saxony. Next week: Brandenburg!

Date: 2020-08-07 06:18 pm (UTC)
reverancepavane: (Default)
From: [personal profile] reverancepavane
Yay for pics!

Date: 2020-08-07 06:23 pm (UTC)
misbegotten: A skull wearing a crown with text "Uneasy lies the head" (Default)
From: [personal profile] misbegotten
These are fabulous! Thank you!

Date: 2020-08-07 07:03 pm (UTC)
trobadora: (Default)
From: [personal profile] trobadora
Gorgeous photos!

Date: 2020-08-07 07:05 pm (UTC)
yhlee: German rapier (mostly the hilt) (rapier)
From: [personal profile] yhlee
Thank you so much for this, especially the historical background!

I had to look up "morganatic marriage" so I am also one word smarter as well. :)

Date: 2020-08-07 07:52 pm (UTC)
sovay: (Rotwang)
From: [personal profile] sovay
Which means: at long last, another travelling pic spam!

Thank you for the photography!

Date: 2020-08-07 11:21 pm (UTC)
sylvaine: Dark-haired person with black eyes & white pupils. (Default)
From: [personal profile] sylvaine
Oh these are some lovely pictures! I remember the Sächsische Schweiz and those glorious rocks there :D and Countess Cosel sounds like she had a rough lot but was a badass.

Date: 2020-08-07 11:50 pm (UTC)
cahn: (Default)
From: [personal profile] cahn
Wow, this is very cool, and beautiful pictures <3

...I'm going to be able to picture AW's disgrace now. That's so neat, that you were able to go there!

Augustus the Strong is fascinating, and I love that they have replicas :D His clothes, though! So shiny! That BATHROBE. (They look kind of uncomfortable to wear, but I would love to see other people wear those clothes!)

Countess Cosel sounds really cool <3
Edited Date: 2020-08-07 11:51 pm (UTC)

Date: 2020-08-08 12:25 am (UTC)
dhampyresa: (Default)
From: [personal profile] dhampyresa
Such pretty pictures and interesting commentary!

Do you know why Anna converted to Judaism?

Date: 2020-08-09 12:23 am (UTC)
dhampyresa: (Default)
From: [personal profile] dhampyresa
I hope if you find out you'll let us know

Date: 2020-08-08 06:46 am (UTC)
iberiandoctor: (Default)
From: [personal profile] iberiandoctor
Lovely photos! Thanks for sharing!

Date: 2020-08-08 08:54 am (UTC)
thawrecka: (Default)
From: [personal profile] thawrecka
Everything in the photos is absolutely gorgeous.

Date: 2020-08-08 09:49 pm (UTC)
mildred_of_midgard: (Default)
From: [personal profile] mildred_of_midgard
Thank you for traveling on behalf of our fandom and sharing the beauty and learning with us! Gott bewahre dir.

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