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selenak: (Kitten by Cheesygirl)
For my last post from Venice, I shall turn over my blog to a guest star, in whose former house I am currently staying. However, in the spirit of performance art and what with being dead, he will be incorporated by a living local. Attend, audience, to Giacomo Casanova as embodied by Tiziano the cat:

 photo e28dad3252be5646a041d55738e62ac8_zps56fac04f.jpg

Let me tell you all about escapes and Venetian places to stay )
selenak: (KircheAuvers - Lefaym)
As today is my last day in Venice, there will be more than one post. Let's kick it off with the pictorial results of my trips to Padua and Vicenza, respectively.

If wealthily then happily in Padua )

Free in Vicenza )
selenak: (Dork)
I'm strill trying to work out whether there is any way I can blame this on Shakespeare. Or the Oxfordians. Or better yet, Edward de Vere. Somehow. Anyway: Monday night say me attending to the book presentations by Paul Edmondson and Stanley Wells. The books in question were Shakespeare Beyond Doubt and A Year of Shakespeare. Joseph Fiennes was on the cover of the former, thought the authors actually wanted a Max Beerbohm caricature of the bard, but were told the younger Fiennes simply has more recognition value right now; the later documents all the productions that formed a part of the global Shakespeare festival last year, all 35 plays in dozens of languages.

It was a nice evening, though behind me sat a grim looking gentleman who muttered, while Edmondson was talking "I do not like this ironic style of presentation; there are SERIOUS scholars doubting the Stratford man". However, he didn't dare to speak up later on, perhaps intimidated by Edmondson & Wells joking they had a mole at the most recent Oxfordian conference who told them the Oxfordians were aghast that not only did Anonymous flop but was so ridiculous it actually damaged their cause instead of promoting it.

Shakespeare Beyond Doubt isn't solely about refuting the Oxford claim, there are essays why Bacon and Marlowe couldn't have written Will's plays as well, by experts on either. The Marlowe guy is none other than Charles Nicholls, whose The Reckoning about Marlowe's death some of you may have read. Incidentally, Stanley Wells mentioned that there is a new novel about how Marlowe faked his death and became Shakespeare about to be published, for which they have some awed admiration because it's written entirely in verse.

So home I went on a "Will forever!" high and promptly made a fatal mistake. I had planned a trip by train to Padua for Tuesday. Now I have two handbags with me, one tiny, black and small and to go out with, and one big and baggy and there to put tour guides, cameras, and other objects in it. The big handbag was for Padua, obviously, and I had been careful to put in it already said tour guide, and my train tickets, and the number which I had to present in order to get my ticket for Giotto's frescoes in the Capella degli Scrovegni, which was the main reason why I wanted to go to Padua in the first place. What I, thoughts still on matters Shakespearean, completely forgot was to remove my purse with money, credit card and ID from the small to the big handbag.

Come Tuesday, I happily wandered to the railway station, devalued my advance bought ticket and thus didn't have reason to check my purse, flopped down in the train, and 45 minutes later was in Padua, famous for its university, the Giotto paintings, and the tomb of St. Antony, patron of lost things.

Go figure.

By now, it has become very warm in Italy, so when I arrived in Padua, I thought, well, let's buy a small water bottle for the day. Which was when I discovered that I was in complete lack of a purse. Or any money whatsoever. Or a credit card. There were two possibilities: either I had forgotten the wretched thing in my other handbag, or it was stolen. I was pretty sure I simply had forgotten, but you can't be 100% sure, can you? So... what to do? Giotto was waiting. And that ticket had been paid in advance by credit card online, because you have to book tickets in advance, and they're not refundable. I decided to gamble, wandered to the Capella degli Scrovegni, presented my number, and did get my ticket, which however was not due until about four hours later. (I had wanted to play it safe when booking.) As it turns out, there are some churches you can visit in Padua without having to pay an entry fee (there are hardly any in Venice), though no other museums than the one already included in my Giotto ticket. And of course one can stroll through the streets at one's leisure. Padua isn't as striking a city as some other Italian towns, but some of the streets have cobblestones and arcades, which are charming to look at. The Duomo is one mighty baroque church, but not the standout attraction; nor is the basilica St. Guistiniano (also free of entry); that's the basilica of St. Antony, which has the remains of the titular saint in it. Also some beautiful frescoes on the ceilings, which you can hardly see because it's in the process of being restored, and a shrine over the actual tomb which is no holds barred every excess baroque could ever throw at it, sculpture wise. Photography is absolutely forbidden but I managed one shot nonetheless. Now, not all of Antony rests there. No, they keep his tongue and chin separately as relics. Here I was reminded of my hometown Bamberg, where they used to keep the skulls of the sainted Imperial couple buried in our cathedral on separate altars, and child!me always wondered who decapitated Heinrich and Kunigunde.
With Antonius, it's even worse. I mean, who pulled out his tongue from the body? Seriously. And currently a poster boasts that it's the 750th anniversary of Antony's tongue being discovered intact, even.

One of my grandmothers was an Antonia and always lit a candle to her patron saint when she was looking for lost things, but I felt split between two thoughts in that basilica: 1.) Who pulled out the tongue? and 2.) Please, St. Antony, let me find my purse in the black small handbag when I get back to Venice!

...and a third thought about the blessed water starting to look good. See, by the time I arrived at the basilica St. Antony I had been walking around for two and half hours, and did I mention it was HOT?

Anyway: I made it back to the Capella degli Scrovegni and surrounding museums, which were included in my ticket. The archaeological one surprised me by having various letters by Giovanni Belzoni (see last narrative post), some medals in his honour and a bust showing him as well as a Sekhmet statue which he donated to the city of Padua. The multimedia room, which usually I skip in museums but which now was cool and allowed me to sit a bit, had a short film about Enrico Scrovegni, who had hired Giotto to paint his chapel, and how one of his key motives for the whole chapel building and painting enterprise had been the fact that his father had been a moneylender and even had been mentioned by name by Dante in the Divine Comedy as being in hell. Basically, the film claimed Enrico's thought process had been that chapel + Giotto's paintings beats literature, as far as the postumous fate of his old man was concerned.

Be that as it may: they're really careful about keeping corrosion away from these frescoes. As mentioned, you have to book your tickets in advance, there are only a certain number of people allowed in the chapel, you first are let into a room where you sit for 15 minutes getting attuned to the cool air condition that prevails in the chapel, then the automatic door opens and you enter the chapel itself, and then you stay there for another 15 minutes precisely, after which you're kicked out through another exit. But, you know: so worth it.

Giotto is at the transition point between late middle ages and early Renaissance, and of course I had seen some post card size reproductions, but nothing like the real thing. Which is absolutely amazing. The chapel shows three narrative cycles - in almost comic strip form - one about Mary's parents, Joachim and Anna, one about Mary, and one about Jesus. And there is passion and movement in these paintings: for example, the one about the murder of the children at Nazareth. I've seen many variations of this subject, but never one where the focus of the painting was on the women, the mothers, and where they were presented as an angry, crying, outraged and active crowd, tears on their cheeks, shaking fists, clutching the children, fighting back. Or: a nativity scene with Mary, Joseph and Jesus. Mary is lying half on her side, half on her belly and holding her baby to look at him. I've never seen Mary depicted like this in a nativity scene, and I bet Giotto must have observed women playing with their babies this way. And the colours are so vivid and intense; it's breathtaking.

As I sat in the train back to Venice (at least I had bought the return ticket in advance as well - I'd have been so screwed otherwise) , the Giotto effect started to fade, and the slow nibbling sense of impending hysteria started. What if I HAD brought my purse with me, and it had been stolen on the train? What then? So, dehydrated as I was by then (and, err, with a somewhat growling stomach), I practically jumped out of the train car and raced back to the Fondamente Nuove, up the stairs, with no glance at the accusing Augustus bust, burst into my rooms, and there it was, my small black handbag. With my purse.

Today I was in Vincenza (also just an hour by train from Venice) and everything went well, plus it is full of gorgeous architecture, which means you'll get a pic spam tomorrow once I managed to upload all the photos. But the Padua tale had to get an entry of its own. Damm Edward de Vere anyway!
selenak: (KircheAuvers - Lefaym)
One of those books sold in the local shops in English is titled "explore Venice with Shylock and Othello!" Now I know this is probably just a collection of quotes from Merchant of Venice and Othello, but the way my imagination works was: Wouldn't that make a good modern AU fanfic challenge? Shylock and Othello, working as tour guides? That would be a surviving Othello who has to do community service by employing his talent for telling tales which won Desdemona for the tourist masses, and Shylock who after his trial has been condemmed to some kind of community service as well instead of the baptism. Or maybe someone could even find some historical equivalent. Anyway, Othello's grandiose rethoric and Shylock's short, to the point, acid statement would clash beautifully, and there would be all types of conflicts, what with both them outsiders to Venetian society, but Othello as the one who thought of himself as part of it, of having completely assimilated, who admired it, until, and who feels horribly guilty, and Shylock as the one who hates Venice for what it did and does to him, except for the part where it's still his home. There is potential, I tell you.

Meanwhile, I offer some pictorial illustration for recent pots, as is my wont.
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selenak: (Illyria by Kathyh)
It turns out I was mistaken about the total absence of cats in Venice. This noon when strolling I spotted not only one but two: a black and white and an absolutely beautiful and large red. Clearly the later's name must be Tiziano.

Yesterday I took the one and only daily boat to San Lazzaro degli Armeni. Which used to be leper's colony and a Benedictine hospital, and then it was given to an Armenian order instead in the 18th century. Whereupon it turned into one of the central sources of Armenian culture world wide. This was where books in Armenian were printed at a time they were forbidden under the Turks in the Ottoman empire. They have the third largest collection of Armenian manuscripts and the first in terms of quality anywhere, including a fifth century one, written only twenty years or so after the Armenian alphabet was invented. There are some non-Armenian manuscripts there as well, such as a thirteenth century Qu'ran or a letter by the Russian Czar Peter the Great, but mainly it's an Armenian treasure hoard. It's also still a monastery, albeit like in most places in the world a shrinking one - sixteen monks and four novices, and like I said, there is only one boat from Venice per day, and you're only allowed to enter the monastery as part of a guided tour.

It's a big red building rising from the sea, and there is a small sailing boat in the mini harbor where the vaporetto parks, called, inevitably, Armenia. The interior is restrained baroque, with a beautiful general library, where they keep the printed books, an extra modern room where they keep the ancient hand written manuscripts, two small rooms with items relating to Armenian culture such as the sword of the last Armenian king, the death mask of the founder of the order, paintings by the brother of one of the order who went on to become a Romantic painter in Russia, etc., and one beautiful study room in is named after Byron (as in Lord Byron, the poet), who used to come here for eight months on a daily basis for a crash course in Armenian. He also helped the monks composing the first Armenian-English dictionary during the years he lived in Venice (Just in case you were wondering whether Byron was interested in things other than sex, drugs and rock'n roll poetry.) Byron's room boasts of the most unusual item in the monastery's collection, which wasn't there yet when he was: a mummy. Said mummy came to the monks via the Armenian Boghos Bey, who was Mehmed Ali's secretary of foreign affairs and trade. (Mehmed Ali being the ruler of Egypt at the time.) Boghos Bey, in turn, got it from one of the earliest archaeologists, Giovanni Belzoni; Belzoni and his wife Sarah lived for a while in Boghos Bey's house when they first came to Cairo, and this was Belzoni's way of saying thank you. Which is how the body of an Egyptian priest ended up in an Armenian monastery on an island near Venice. They have put the casket in an extra glass container, so you do see the actual body, which is wrapped in an undestroyed net made of glass pearls, basic colour blue and patterns with the obvious suspects as symbols - the scarabeus, most prominently. Bear in mind that in 1825, nobody could decypher hieroglyphs yet; this was still to come. Nobody had any idea who he was, this long ago dead man, when he came to San Lazzaro. The mumified body is black, a bit smaller than your avarage person today, and one has to wonder, doesn't one, who will look at our own dead bodies in three thousand years. If anyone.

You can see the Venetian skyline from San Lazzaro, but if Byron really at one point swam the whole way back to the Canale Grande, as local legend has it, this was quite a feat. (Byron was majorly into swimming, not least because that was one sport where his lame foot was inconsequential.) Much closer is the next island, San Servolo, where there used to the hospital for the victims of the plague, and then for the insane. These days there is still a museum for mental illness there, but mostly it's part of the university.

Speaking of things university, while the International Festival of Literature is over, there are still lectures going on, including one tonight by Stanley Wells and Paul Edmondson of Shakespeare scholarship fame, in which they promise to demolish the Oxfordian heresy. While they're preaching to the choir with me, I'm looking forward to hearing them!
selenak: (VanGogh - Lefaym)
One thing I never had the time to do on previous trips to Venice was to explore the various islands in the bay, other than Murano where I went on my first trip with the parents as a child, ages ago, and not since. (I still have that glass cat with the red fish inside, though.) Consequently, being blessed with enough time, I did my houssitting duty of airing the building a bit yesterday morning and then went on to do some island hopping: Murano (again), Burano (a technicolor explosion), Torcello (only twelve people or so live there now, but it used to be important before malaria and other catastrophes struck, so there is a basilica with some gorgeous mosaics there, and a marble throne on which supposedly Attila the Hun sat when he passed through), Guidecca (boasts of a Sandman story set there) and San Giorgio Maggiore (best view over Venice ever from the Campanile). Yet to come, because only one boat a day goes there and I missed it yesterday: San Lazzaro degli Armenii.

Photography wise, Murano doesn't have much to offer: the attraction is all in the glass shops. Though one of the churches boasts of having some dragon's bones hung up behind the altar. (Speaking of dragons, there is a small church in Venice which has the most gorgeous cycle of paintings by Carppaccio on St. George which boasts of some of the best dragon depictions I've seen - including torn rotten human limbs and bones on the ground in the painting when George confronts the dragon, so this is the only George & dragon painting I've seen which actually sells you on a sense of danger - but alas one is forbidden to take pictures, and it is only a small church with a hawk-eyed attendant.) Torcello has the basilica and the mosaics, both of them are handsome enough, but pale because unfortnunately I only was in Ravenna last year, so the memories are still vivid. Also, I remember how fastly I maxed out my monthly bandwidth during said last trip to Italy, and so I have to make choices. Which means the photos you're about to get are mainly Burano, making every technicolor comic film look pale by comparison and the fantastic Venice skyline as seen from San Giorgio Maggiore. But believe me, the sight is amazing.

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selenak: (Berowne by Cheesygirl)
Going up the stairs of the palazzo, one of the first things I see each time I leave and enter is a bust with an obsidian Augustus, who looks at me rather accusingly. Or maybe it's just that I'm not the biggest Augustus fan.

En route half way across the city to the Santa Margherita Da' Foscari auditorium, you meet half the nations of the world, by way of hearing fragments, and I imagine that's always been the case here in Venice. The audience for Michael Ondaatje's and Linda Spalding's reading was a mix of locals and visitors as well. Before the conversation between them and the moderator started, each read first two excerpts of their latest novels, which were projected in Italian translation behind them on the wall - a new method, the readings I've attended before that were held in a non-local language usually had an actor or the translator reading the translations in tandom with the author reading the originals. This method is far less time consuming!

Linda Spalding is originally from Kansas, like Dorothy, and moved to Toronto much later, and Michael Ondaatje was born in Sri Lanka, left when he was 11 and went to England, and ended up in Canada, but they're both listed as "Canadian writers", so one of the earliest questions posed to them by the moderator was that, given nearly none of their books take place in Canada - though some feature Canadian characters - and neither of them were born in Canada, do they see themselves as Canadian writers? Ondaatje replied that he does, because Canada was his catalyst. That he wouldn't have become a writer has he remained in Sri Lanka, nor in England because in England he had the impression, growing up, that writers belong to a mysterious elite. Not until Canada did he see writing as something accessible to him, that he could do.

His voice struck me as being stuck somewhere mid-Atlantic, while Linda Spalding's is distinctly American. They're both good readers, which actually isn't often the case with authors. I had not read anything of Spalding's before, but the excerpt she read, of her novel The Purchase; intrigued me. (You can hear her read another excerpt of the same novel here on You Tube, I've since checked.) It's a historical one, which she later during the conversation said she had gotten the idea for when finding out that some of her ancestors were both Quakers and slave owners. Since Quakers were strictly anti slavery, this shocked her, and trying to get into the mindset that allowed for both struck her as a writerly challenge.

Michael Ondatjee read from The Cat's Table, also historical, an excerpt about three boys on board a ship crossing the Suez Canal while there are mysterious goings-on. When asked about his ideas and concepts for novels, he insisted that to write a novel based on an intellectual construct, a theme or a thoughtline, would be deadly to him. "It would run out of life after two pages," was how he put it. "I don't know the characters, I discover them" when starting to write, he said, and mentioned that when beginning The English Patient, he didn't know who Hana and the Patient were, he just had the image of a nurse and her patient, none of their backstories, not even when the novel would take place, and that was the start; as a visual person, the first thing that comes to him is said image. Which of course makes editing and redrafting very important once the manuscript has been finished for the first time, but he enjoys that: "The craft of editing is such a pleasure."

Someone who came as a complete surprise to him in The English Patient was Kip, who became a key character and indeed, as Ondaatje put it, "saved the novel". When complimented about the ending by the moderator - the news about the bombs of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, and Kip's reaction to them (for non-readers of the novel who also haven't seen the film, Kip is an Indian soldier serving in the British army, who's been busy disarming bombs throughout the film) - he said originally the ending was strongly critisized. "Everyone brought up that Kip says - actually, it's Caravaggio who says it, but people remember it as being Kip, which is interesting in itself - 'they would not have dropped the bomb on a white race'. And a lot of reviewers, American reviewers in particular, took issue with that. And then the prime minister of Canada actually said, referring to the nuclear bombs, 'Thank God they didn't drop them on white people'."

As Ondaatje is also a poet, and used to do illustrations for some of his books, he loves interaction of the arts. Collages especially, "mongrel art, as I call them". For Linda Spalding, visual inspiration isn't as key, but one of the things that interested her about a book she was suggested to do by her publisher was that she could write it with her daughter, and she had never worked with someone writing a book before, which was one of the reasons why she eventually said yes. The original suggestion was to go to Borneo "and write a biography of a crazy woman", who followed the footsteps of Dian Fossey, only with Orang Utans, not gorillas. The at first proposed non-fiction character of the book put Spalding off because she felt it limited her, but then she got to write the same story as fiction, which was good since by then she'd been to Borneo and felt very criticial about what her subject was doing, not least because of her contact with the indigineous people there. She also got the idea for yet another novel from the stories she heard, so she ended up being inspired not to one, but two novels.

Neither of them actually edits or is the first reader for each other, which is extremely interesting to me because most writer couples whom I've heard of usually do end up showing each other the writings first. Not these two. They both said they're too close to each other to have good judgment, which I can understand. Ondaatje told an anecdote about a Jewish writers, whose name I can't recall right now, who said a young colleague told him "I've written a novel, and my mother likes it, my father likes it, my sister likes it, what should I do?" whereupon the older writer replied "move out and leave home".

The hour with them virtually flew, if you allow me the cliché, and there was a lot of enthusiastic applause before they moved on to the book signings.

The second reading/discussion I absolutely wanted to attend was Stephen Greenblatt's. I had read Will in the World, though not The Swerve yet, which was the book he was reading and discussing from. (However, I dimly recall reading a review in The New Yorker which took issue with several of its central arguments.) Stephen Greenblatt was interviewed by Gilberto Sacerdoti, and as Friday happened to be a day where there were train strikes, both of them were late. The audience took it philosophically.

As it turned out, Stephen Greenblatt speaks Italian, which meant that Gilberto Sacerdoti asked in Italian and Greenblatt answered in English; the reading itself was in English (with the text projected above him again in Italian) as well. It was a bit like hearing a one sided telephone conversation, though my smidgeons of memories from the mid 90s plus what remains of my Latin plus Greenblatt's replies meant I could follow the Q & A pretty well.

If Michael Ondaatje had a bit of an Old Testament Prophet As Painted By Michelangelo look, Stephen Greenblatt struck me as more of a journalist from Fellini's movies back when he was still filming in black and white type; dark haired, slender, with a perpetually sardonic look often mixing with lighter amusement. The Swerve deals with the (re)discovery of De Rerum Naturae by Lucretius, which happened via an Italian named Poggio in 1407, if I jotted this down correctly, who found a transcription of Lucretius from the Carolingian era (i.e. 800 AD plus) probably in Fulda. Poggio the book lover on his way across the Alps was the passage Stephen Greenblatt read, but vivid as his description of the hoping-for-findings Poggio was, it was superceded for my biased self by the summary of one of Poggio's letters he gave in reply to Sacerdoti's first question a moment later. Because in said letter, Poggio, presumably en route to Fulda or back, writes about how these Germans really are a happy go lucky people who know how to relax and have fun, though none too industrious, whereas "we Italians are so hard working and serious". I think I'll have to get this book for that letter alone. Elaborating further on how this discovery that we used to be known as hip fun lovers who knew how to party at the dawn of the Renaissance, Greenblatt said that though the German reputation has, err, changed since then, you can find echoes of German hedonism by our national passion to get our clothes off. (This is how he phrased it.) "I mean, have you ever been in the Englischer Garten in Munich when it's even a little bit sunny?"

(Later, when I paid my respects and said how much I had enjoyed his presentation, especially the letter, he said, well, the first time he noticed the particular way of German hedonism was when he was holidaying with his wife and going into a sauna where the American and Italian guests would wear bathing suits where the Germans would be in the nude. "But how else would you visit a sauna BUT in the nude?" quoth I. "It seams to me wearing anything defeats a sauna's purpose." Which btw is what I do think, though I was being a bit disingeneous. When I was holidaying with my mother as a present for her 60th birthday a few years back and we were in an English-run hotel in Mallorca in spring, we timed our sauna expeditions so that if possible no one else would be there because the hotel had a list of dos and don'ts and among the don'ts was "no nudity in the sauna unless you're alone as it offends the Americans".)

Back to serious business. Greenblatt's central thesis - that it was this rediscovery of Lucretius via Poggio who brought De Rerum Naturae back into circulation which kicked off the Renaissance, to put it glibly - and that there was indeed a Renaissance, a distinct break from the Middle Ages, though it didn't happen over night, which is as he admitted "an old fashioned view" argued against for the last thirty years or so - was something presented with passion and verve. And contemporary allusions; Lucretius' atheistic world view of a material cosmos with no afterlife for the individual was not one "any American President could hold even today". The reasons why De Rerum Naturae become such a bestseller post-Poggio, he said, were a) that after Petrarca, Italians were receptive to the eros of poetry, and De Rerum Naturae was written in breathtakingly beautiful poetry, and b) it was a hit with the teachers because the Latin Lucretius uses is "fantastically difficult" and thus ideally suited to torment students with. So basically: form over barely realised content. By the time Machiavelli made his own handwritten copy of De Rerum Naturae, about two hundred years later, its ideological impact seems to have been realised as Machiavelli after copying the whole damm poem in his own hand writing never alluded to the fact he'd done it anywhere else in his writings.

Greenblatt had spotted the poet Alicia Stallings in the audience and mentioned her as the author of the current best translator of De Rerum Naturae into English; he said that to him the contemporary relevance which the poem still has is less the old differentiation between dovere and piacere and more that by being a poem and a scientific treatise as the same time, it proves that it is possible to unite science and beauty, which according to him is the big split in our days - the idea that facts and aesthetics are irreconcilable, and Lucretius proves it isn't so.

Going back in time, he also mentioned the discovery of Montaigne's own copy of De Rerum Naturae only a few decades ago, covered with annotations in Montaigne's own hand writing, and managed to get across a sense of excitement and discovery; it reminded me suddenly of A.S. Byatt's novel Possession and the moment Roland finds Ash's letter in Ash's copy (with annotations in his handwriting) of a book. Now you can of course argue about whether or not this single book over the course of one and a half centuries really had that much impact on how people (for people, read: people able to read Latin and to have access to books, which of course was a distinct minority pre Gutenberg) thought, but what is unarguable is that Greenblatt, as a writer and as an orator, made the intellectual excitement which a text can cause palpable to his audience in the Santa Margherita da' Foscari auditorium, and that's something marvellous for an author to achieve.

(That, and he reminded the world gli Tedesci once were known as careless hedonists by one hard working serious Italian visitor. Ha!)
selenak: (Tourists by Kathyh)
The photobucket app worked once more, and thus I can present more Venetian impressions, of buildings and literati, for your visual delectation as well.

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selenak: (Claudius by Pixelbee)
When I'm having breakfeast and looking through my window, I see the Cimitero, the cemetery island of Venice, as the Palazzo I'm housesitting is at the Fondamente Nuove. I also see, sometimes amazingly close, the sea gulls flying, and can't help but note they look more elegant in action than those other birds ever present in Venice, doves, aka the winged rats, as a friend of mine once put it.

It's an odd sensation, not having to hurry when strolling through Venice, though my natural mode of walking is pretty fast anyway. I can't help it. Still, sometimes one notices details which previously escaped one's view. For example: that mask shop advertising with the fact Stanley Kubrick bought his masks there (for Eyes Wide Shut). The film in question having beena flop, I'm not sure whether that's a good advertisement, but anyway.

Last night the Festival Internationale Di Letteratura was opened with a ceremony at the Santa Margharita Ca' Foscari auditorium. Yours truly promptly went to the wrong place first - I went to the university main building, which this is not - but was directed to the correct former church. The opening ceremony was something that I had to take on faith and sound, since my little Italian from the mid 90s has disappeared, but, well, the speeches SOUNDED great. Also, the writer chosen to be part of the opening ceremony was the Syrian poet Adonis, and his performance was a multi media event anyway - he recited, a musician played the piano at his left side, and on the right side, a man painted various phrases from his poem in various languages calligraphically on various sheets of paper. Said sheets were at the end all held up by students of the university. It made for an amazing effect, and I took some photos, which I will post.

Afterwards, there was to be a reception at the Ca' Rezzonico, but before everyone could move on there, the organization committed a strategic mistake by giving everyone the chance to catch some air outside of Sa' Margherita where also some of the writers, all of whom had been presented at the opening ceremony, were supposed to sign some of their books already. Why was this a strategic mistake? Lack of stamina, she says with teutonic stoicism. See, among the festival guests were Michael "The English Patient" Ondaatje and his partner Linda Spalding. I got introduced to them and felt just a wee bit fangirlish, which Mr. Ondaatje, who looks a bit like an Old Testament prophet (photo to follow) took with good grace. Linda Spalding was cheerful and charming - and very hungry. "Will there be food at the reception?" she asked Mine Hostess, herself a professor at the local university, who couldn't say. Whereupon off went the Canadians in the direction of the next ristorante despite the fact they were guests of honour. This had the potential of being, err, problematic; however, I'm happy to report they rejoined us later.

At this point, everyone had moved on to the Ca' Rezzonico, which is a restored palazzo and a museum of 17th century Venice, and drop dead gorgeous. As there was indeed a delicious buffet (clearly the reward for stoic Germans), it was a feast for all the senses, because, lo and behold, not just the grand ball room but every single room had been kept open and could be visited. And this time I had a Venetian at my side. She told me it had been in severe decline and ruined until the 30s, which was when the palazzo was restored. Its main claim to fame for the English speaking world is that Robert Browning died and lay in state there; a photo exists, but the caryatids which on the photo are still carrying the world on globe form on their shoulders have since Victorian times been relieved of their burden, no one knows by whom. Everywhere, equisite tapestries and elegant furniture abounds, and I was snapping away photos like a madwoman, because usually you get these rooms only with hordes of other people in them and here those over people were still busy eating. (The buffet: a good thing in so many ways.) On the other side of the Canale Grande one could clearly see the Palazzo Grassi, currently hosting an exhibition of Rudolf Stingel who for some reason decorated the rooms with red Persian looking tapestry you could see from across the Canale due to the lightning.

On a theme of non-Italians in Venice, I went and saw the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, something I skipped the last time around because last year I was pressed for time, and I hadn't come to Venice for modern art anyway. This time, I was struck by Mrs. Guggenheim basically having lived the anti Henry James heroine life: she went abroad, she had lots of lovers which enhanced rather than destroyed her reputation, she championed not the past but the present and ended up getting extra permission to be buried in her garden instead of the Cimitero. Next to her dogs; I admit to having been confused a bit when reading "my precious babies" and then some rather excentric names, but the dates made it clear they were indeed her dogs. Also next to Peggy and the dogs: an olive tree, donated as a "wish tree" by Yoko Ono when Ms. Guggenheim was still alive. Because I can do the six steps to my 60s interests with everything. :)

Tonight: Michael Ondaatje at the auditorium, and tomorrow it's Stephen Greenblatt's turn. Meanwhile, the relatively sunny weather is still holding, which means I do a lot more walking than in door work, because I don't know about you, but I can't be in Venice in the sunshine and not go outside for long!
selenak: (Linda by Beatlemaniac90)
The first pic spam, of course. Incidentally, you won't find many photos of the obvious suspects, because I did that last year, and I point you to this post for seeing some good ones, if I say so myself. However, sometimes one just can't resist. So here is the Canale Grande with the Rialto in the background to kick it off:

 photo bd21b044e11f4b7820310cb05eb29b36_zps2b53890c.jpg

Read more... )
selenak: (City - KathyH)
April is still cold in Venice as it seems to be in the rest of the world, but who cares - it's Venice, and beautiful as ever. Though I will say that when the Canadian couple I met last night mentioned the apartment they had rented here came with two pairs of Wellington boots in case of Aqua Alta, it gave me pause. So sign of water to wade through in the lower regions of the house I'm staying in, though! Which is lucky, since I came only with black boots to go with short skirts and otherwise with the sports shoes one wears when planning on walking a lot.

The palazzo whose owner was kind enough to invite yours truly isn't the official family seat or something like that, but he does own it, his (adult) kids live elsewhere, he himself and his wife are in another house as well, and in this one a painter friend of his used to reside for about thirty years. Now, no one does, save the occasional guest so it doesn't decay unhindered, which is why I come in. It's a TARDIS of a house, looking harmless and avarage outside and inside a bit like something of a Thousand Nights - these Venetians and their Byzantine tastes - with cracks on the wall. Although I myself am not staying at the big splendour filled rooms, which aren't heated and thus decidedly on the frostid side. I'm staying in nice small and above all heated rooms which I suppose used to be the servants' quarters. There is also a tiny kitchen which is just right for one person. Though I blanched when seeing the gas oven. I haven't the slightest idea of how to handle gas and thus do not intend to use it the ten days I'm staying here. (I.e. will not cook anything.) This house survived Casanova being in residence in the 1740s; it will most certainly survive me without getting blown up.

Wearing slippers, which of course I didn't the last time around when I was but a simple tourist, I can feel how uneven the floor is - the worn out ness of old houses, like matresses with the imprint of so many people having added their weight over the centuries. It is is a more tactile version of experiencing history than is usually possible, since you're not supposed to touch anything in museums. And not just with fingers but with feet. Most strange and compelling.

There is currently a series of lectures in English - which is good since alas I have forgotten most of the Italian I picked up in the early 90s when I spent three months near Rome - and I went to one last night, which was about Thomas Mann's novella Death in Venice and Benjamin Britten's opera of the same name. *waves at [personal profile] naraht, Britten afficiniado extraordinaire* With a slight nod towards the Visconti movie. Said lecture was given by a husband and wife team, who were the Canadians I had dinner with afterwards. It was a great take in the trickiness of adopting a mostly interior - with nearly no external action - bit of literature in two different media, film and opera - and how the different adaptions solved said problem. For example: Tadzio, the boy whom the central character of Death in Venice loves hopelessly from afar, at no point in the novella actually communicates with Aschenbach (the main character). They never speak. And of course opera can't just let Aschenbach endlessly describe him in song. Britten comes up with a musical equivalent for this by writing Tadzio as a dancer who never sings. So the different ways of expression are kept, but in a musical form - one sings, one dances - and the dancing is also in tune with Aschenbach's repressed sexuality being drawn out by falling for Tadzio. Incidentally, since we've discussed The Charioteer recently, it occurs to me that Mary Renault probably read Death in Venice as well - it was published in 1911, and is absolutely bursting with our hero overintellectualizing his emotions via Greek myths and Platonic imagery until he has to admit Dionysos wons.

One thing neither Visconti's film nor Britten's opera could find an equivalent of was the highly ironic narrator who never gives Aschenbach a break, whereas the adaptions by skipping the irony are left with more pathos than the original story offered. Which set the Canadians & self wondering whether there is such a thing as an ironic opera. "You can do irony in a musical," quoth I, "Stephen Sondheim is great at it - but in opera?"

Lecturing on Britten & Mann in Venice itself gave them added pleasure. Among the next lectures awaiting in the week to come is one by Michael Ondatjee and one by Stephen Greenblatt. Life is good.

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